Hiking Hat Mountain via Fat Ass Peak near Lions Bay
Contents
Hat Mountain Hike Information
Difficulty: Difficult
Distance: 18Km
Elevation Gain: 1,500m
Highest Elevation: 1,644m
Average Gradient: 16.67%
Effort/Reward Ratio: High / High
Time Needed:
– Slow: 8 – 10 Hours
– Moderate: 6 – 8 Hours
– Fast: 5 – 6 Hours
Dogs Permitted?: Yes
Season: Summer
4×4 / High Clearance Required? No
Scrambling / Exposure: Some simple scrambling, no exposure.
Hat Mountain Trail
Note: The GPX attached includes summiting Brunswick Mountain, which you can ignore if that is not your intention (though I encourage adding it).
Trailhead Coordinates: 49°28’15.0″N 123°14’05.1″W
Hat Mountain Overview
Hat Mountain is one of the lesser hiked North Shore mountains accessible from Lions Bay. Overshadowed by the nearby Brunswick Mountain, Mount Harvey and the Lions, Hat Mountain is generally only on the radar of more seasoned hikers looking for a different adventure having already summited the aforementioned peaks.
Much of the hike to Hat Mountain follows the same grueling trail as Brunswick Mountain, only once you reach the intersection with the Howe Sound Crest Trail at 1,500m, instead of continuing up Brunswick, hikers would turn onto the HSCT and follow it up and over Fat Ass Peak before continuing up to Hat Mountain. From here it’s possible to form a loop by dropping off the north side of Hat Mountain and returning via a different trail.
Given hikers are so close to Brunswick Mountain (it’s only 250m gain from the HSCT junction), it’s highly recommended to also summit Brunswick Mountain on the same hike, which would increase the stats nominally, to around 20km and 1,800m elevation gain. Given the views that Brunswick offers this is a very worthwhile addition to any hike to Hat Mountain, even if you’ve already been.
Hat Mountain is generally a summer only hike once the snowline has risen beyond these elevations. The terrain around Hat Mountain is steep and technical with snow, with Hat Pass traversing across some steep slopes that are prone to snow patches even in the early summer. As such the season for Hat Mountain is typically July to October.
As always parking at Lions Bay is very limited and extremely busy on a sunny summer weekend thanks to the numerous hikes in the area. It is strongly recommended to be at the trailhead well before 7am to secure parking. Parking at the trailhead is paid by the hour during the peak season. If the parking lot is full you will need to find parking in Lions Bay, which usually means parking down at the elementary school, which adds 1km each way to the hike.
This is a pet friendly trail but it does involve some simple scrambling where a dog might need assistance. There is no exposure on the trail assuming you don’t add Brunswick Mountain to your day.
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Is Hat Mountain worthwhile?
Hat Mountain offers some fantastic views of Brunswick Mountain, Mount Hanover, Hanover Lake, Brunswick Lake and many other nearby peaks, as well as the Howe Sound down below. While the views are great, they are not as good as that of Brunswick Mountain or Mount Harvey, and as such I would suggest completing either of those before Hat Mountain. I strongly suggest hiking Brunswick Mountain at the same time as hiking Hat Mountain (as the GPX above does) as it only adds a small amount of elevation gain and distance to your day.
How difficult is the hike to Hat Mountain?
The hike up to the HSCT junction below Brunswick Mountain is steep and relentless, gaining around 1,300m in just 5.5km or so. The remainder of the hike to Fat Ass Peak and Hat Mountain is much more mellow, with plenty of flat sections and some steep, but short, climbs.
Technically speaking this hike is fairly straightforward. The only somewhat technical sections will be the climb up Hat Mountain from the col below. You will need to scramble up some rocky bluffs, but it’s very simple and there is no exposure. Descending on the other side of Hat Mountain is also somewhat tricky, with some steep terrain and tricky navigation. You’ll definitely want a map to refer to to ensure you are going the correct way, especially if you find yourself off course. You’ll also likely be sliding down on your butt while holding onto branches in some sections as it’s quite steep, but again there’s no exposure if you go the right way.
Hat Mountain Route Information
As with the trail to Mount Harvey, Brunswick Mountain, Tunnel Bluffs and the Lions, the trailhead for Hat Mountain is at Sunset Trailhead parking lot in Lions Bay, which is paid parking in the summer, and typically free in the off season. With very limited parking, and few overflow options, it’s strongly advised to get there very early (before 7am on a sunny weekend) to ensure a parking spot. If the parking lot is full, there is more parking about 1km away from the trailhead near the Lions Bay elementary school. This obviously adds time and more elevation to an already challenging day, so I’d encourage getting the trailhead parking.
This hike begins on the Magnesia Creek trail, which starts as a wide open gravel road. Zig zagging through the forest you will gradually climb, passing a concrete structure and a metal fence. The trail is wide, rugged and rocky, but it’s a mellow gradient so you can usually go at a good pace to begin with.
After around 2km the trail splits. Continuing on the same trail will lead to the Lions and Mount Harvey and turning left, onto the narrow trail, will lead to Brunswick Mountain. For now you will want to follow the Brunswick Mountain trail.
After a few hundred meters on this trail you will cross a small creek, then shortly after that you’ll have to cross Magnesia Creek. This will have a bridge composed of logs and a rope to hold onto for crossing and it’s easy enough. Shortly after crossing this bridge the trail will split again, where going straight will take you to Tunnel Bluffs. You’ll need to go right and follow the signage to Brunswick Mountain.
The trail now narrows significantly and begins climbing at a fairly modest gradient for the next kilometer or so, before steepening somewhat as the trail begins a few switchbacks. A little further along you will reach your first viewpoint over the Howe Sound, which is coincidentally also a good place to rest as the gradient is about to get serious.
Back on the trail, over the next kilometer you will climb steeper and steeper through the forest until eventually you reach a junction in the trail at around the 1,500m elevation mark. This is where the Howe Sound Crest Trail crosses paths with the Brunswick Mountain trail. If you are summiting Brunswick Mountain as well as Hat Mountain like I did, you would now continue up the Brunswick Mountain trail to the summit, before returning to this point to continue on to Hat Mountain.
From the junction you will want to turn onto the HSCT heading north towards Hat Mountain. The relentless climb from the Brunswick Mountain trail is thankfully now over and the next 500m is an almost flat stroll through Hat Pass. While flat, this section traverses across some steep slopes and snow can be known to hang around here into the late spring/early summer. Hitting snow here could be risky as a slip could send you sliding down a good way. Poles will definitely help, as would microspikes if snow is around.
Beyond Hat Pass the HSCT continues but you will want to keep an eye out for a small trail leading steeply up a slope. It’s easy to miss and walk right past it, so keep an eye out and check your map just in case. You’ll immediately reach another junction where you’ll want to turn right and continue climbing up to Fat Ass Peak, which is just ahead.
From here you will have some very nice views of Brunswick Mountain, Mount Hanover and the two lakes, Hanover and Brunswick, below. You’ll also get a clear view of Hat Mountain ahead, which involves a drop down to a col from Fat Ass Peak.
After descending around 50m to the col the trail will begin climbing up Hat Mountain, initially just starting as a steep forest climb but quickly becoming a bit of a scramble. The trail will reach a few rocky bluffs that you need to climb up, and at times you’ll have to pay attention to where the trail is actually going as it’s not always super obvious. Still, with a map in hand it’s quite straightforward and the scrambling is very simple. The climb is fairly brief, only around 80m from the col, and in no time you’ll reach the summit of Hat Mountain, as indicated by the massive radio tower at the top.
The views from Hat Mountain are great, better than Fat Ass Peak, but it’s a fairly broad summit that will require you to walk around a bit to fully appreciate them.
After stopping at the top and grabbing some food, you can begin descending from the north side of Hat Mountain. The trail is somewhat obvious initially but at times it can be difficult to see exactly where it goes. Again, you’ll definitely want to have a map available to see where to go if you lose the trail. It’s quite steep in some spots and you’ll very likely be on your butt to slide down some steep sections while holding on to some branches for stabilization. It’s pretty straightforward and not exposed to any fall, but it’s definitely a rugged trail. Again, the north side of Hat can be prone to snow hanging around, and if it were snowy this part would be very challenging.
Eventually the trail improves and becomes clearer, but the footing is mostly pine needles when you get into the forest. Combined with the steep terrain it’s easy to slip, so take your time. You’ll descend down some boulder fields and back into the forest where the trail zig zags around. It’s a bit slow and frustrating at times as all you really want at this point is an easy, no-brainer trail to follow, and this isn’t that.
Thankfully at around 1,000m elevation the rugged trail gives way to a very easy to follow, modest gradient trail that you can power through with ease. After 2.5km of this you’ll merge onto the Tunnel Bluffs trail where in all likelihood you will join the masses returning from that extremely busy hike. Once on this trail it’s simply a case of following the long plod back to the trailhead, around 5km in total.
When should I hike Hat Mountain?
You want to do this hike when it is assuredly snow free, as any snow lingering around Hat Pass or on the northern side of Hat Mountain could be very sketchy and potentially stop you in your tracks. Usually that means July to October would be the typical months for Hat Mountain.
Top Tip
Definitely add Brunswick Mountain to any hike to Hat Mountain as it only adds another 250m elevation gain and is a very worthwhile addition, even if you’ve already done it.
Most people do this loop counter clockwise but you can technically do it clockwise too. Counter clockwise is likely preferred as it means a steep climb and more mellow descent, which is always easier on the knees. You’ll also benefit from being in the shade most of the day if going counter clockwise.
If there is any potential for snow around Hat Pass or on the northern side of Hat Mountain, carry microspikes and poles at the very least.
Carry plenty of water, especially if you go in late summer. There is no water along the trail after you pass by Magnesia Creek early on.
